HADDOCK TROOP
A plaque on an Aegean island commemorating the loss of four Royal Marines inspired Ross J Robertson to dig in and find out more
Venture out on the Greek island of Milos with a good pair of boots and you might find something seemingly out of place. A small wooden sign on a hairpin bend just beyond the remote monastery of Agios Ioannis is the start point. Hidden by low scrub is a rough pathway, crisscrossing goat trails and furrows caused by water run-off and erosion, which eventually intersects with a service road that Wehrmacht engineers carved into the mountain. Parts of the road’s stony edge remain visible as it leads upwards, but much is overgrown and difficult to follow. Wide sinuous sweeps lead to the craggy top as the climb steepens. The road ends abruptly, but, as you round an outcrop of boulders, the roofless, single-storey Kriegsmarine barracks appears. This is the remains of Topakas. Further exploration reveals an anti-aircraft gun emplacement and nearby bunker. The popular swimming spot of Kleftiko, its rugged limestone coves once hiding a pirate lair and a wartime landing beach, can be easily seen from this vantage point. Burrowed deep into the side of Topakas is a r…
